Foundation waterproofing before the backfill goes in
The cheapest moment to waterproof a basement is before the soil goes back against the walls. For new construction, additions and fully exposed foundations.
Who calls us for this
Builders and owners putting up a new home or addition in the subdivisions around Powell, Pickerington, Hilliard and New Albany; owners who already have a foundation exposed for another repair; and anyone planning a finished lower level who wants more than the minimum damp-proofing.
Damp-proofing versus waterproofing
| Damp-proofing | Waterproofing | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | A thin asphalt coating | A thicker membrane, often with drainage board |
| Stops | Soil moisture | Water under pressure |
| Bridges small cracks | No | Yes, rubberized membranes stretch |
| Suits clay soil | Marginal | Yes |
What we install
A spray- or roller-applied membrane on the cleaned wall, lapped onto the footing; dimpled drainage board over it; and perforated drain tile in washed stone along the footing, led to a sump or to daylight. Washed stone goes back against the wall before the clay so water reaches the drain instead of sitting at the wall.
Timing with the builder
The membrane needs a cured, dry wall and has to be done before backfill. We coordinate dates with your builder or excavator so the hole isn't open longer than it needs to be.
Related: Exterior Waterproofing · Sump Pump Installation · French Drains
Common questions
Isn't damp-proofing enough?
It meets a minimum, but in clay soil that stays wet against the wall, many owners want a membrane that handles water pressure, especially under a finished basement.
Do you work with my builder?
Yes. We schedule around the pour and the backfill and work from the builder's plans.
Can you do an addition only?
Yes. Additions are a common job, and we tie the new drain tile into the existing system where one exists.
What about the permit?
On new construction the builder's permit usually covers it; on standalone exterior work we pull one where required.